历史与人物watchesbysjx.com
独立制表师菊野昌宏:一个人的日本腕表工艺
Masahiro Kikuno, Japanese Independent Watchmaker
2017 — 2019,它一次次回到首页
黑点是上首页(≥ 50 分)的那次投稿,空心点是没冲上去的投稿,点越大分数越高。
导读
这篇人物特写介绍了日本独立制表师菊野正纪(Masahiro Kikuno),一位几乎独自手工制作机械腕表的匠人。他受日本古代“不定时法”时钟启发,手工打造能随昼夜长短调整时刻的腕表,并遵循 George Daniels 的独立制表传统。
为什么经久不衰:在工业化量产时代,一个人从零手工造出复杂机械表的故事展现了极致的工匠精神,对任何领域的创作者都有启发。
HN 评论精选
菊野遵循的是制表大师 George Daniels 的传统,Daniels 的故事与黑客精神相通
我看到他有一本 George Daniels 的《Watchmaking》,那是制表界的“Knuth 著作”。英国有 Roger W. Smith,世界上唯一全手工制表的制表师,他是传奇制表师 Daniels 的主要弟子。Daniels 年轻时靠拆装修理旧钟自学制表,如果生在数字时代,他会是堪比 Woz 的黑客。他不仅自己做表,连所有专用工具都亲手制作,如今最著名的是 Omega 采用的同轴擒纵机构,多年来被认为不可能实现。
robert_tweed查看英文原文
I see he has a copy of "Watchmaking" by George Daniels. That is the "Knuth" of watchmaking. Here in Britain, we have Roger W Smith, the only watchmaker in the world who makes everything by hand. He was the principal disciple of George Daniels, a truly legendary watchmaker, who sadly died a few years ago. Daniels famously taught himself watchmaking by taking apart old clocks, putting them back together and repairing them when he was young. If he had been born in the digital age, he'd have been a hacker comparable to Woz. He didn't just make his own watches, he also made all the specialised tools needed. These days he is perhaps best known for the Daniels Co-Axial Escapement found in some Omega watches, which for many years was believed to be impossible to make. If you google Roger Smith, he has lots of interesting videos on Youtube showing various parts of the watchmaking process from raw materials. There are a few interviews with George Daniels too. Here's one talking about his first complete, from scratch watch: https://youtube.com/watch?v=CSeTi93f2eU
解释了菊野作品的文化背景:复现日本古代不定时计时的机械表
日本传统上一天分昼夜各十二小时,但小时的长度逐日变化。菊野受实现这一制度的古代时钟启发,决定手工打造一块能实现同样功能的腕表,是了不起的大师,还有很精彩的纪录片。
AtomicOrbital查看英文原文
In traditional Japan the custom was each day had 12 hours of daylight and 12 of night time so to accommodate this the length of hours shifted day by day ... Masahiro was inspired by an ancient clock which implemented this idea such that he decided to craft by hand a watch to perform this as well ... incredible master and some impressive video documentary taboot
赞赏手工精密工艺的传承,但也担忧其被商业化收编
很高兴看到他和 Cut Brooklyn 等刀具匠、铸剑师等人延续手工精密制品的传统,自己动手而非外包或自动化。不过这是把双刃剑:一方面延续数百年传统,另一方面他们又被那些以效率和“做得更好”之名加速传统手工艺消亡的公司里的时髦鉴赏家所收编。向这些人致敬。
mc32查看英文原文
It's great to see people like him and others like messersmiths such as Cut Brooklyn, swordsmakers, etc. continue the tradition of hand-made precision[1] products and doing it themselves rather than designing and then farming out the work to others or automating the process. It is, though, a kind of double edged sword. On the one hand they continue centuries-long traditions, on the other hand they get coöpted by hipsterish connoisseurs who work for companies feverishly contributing to the demise of traditional craft in the name of efficiency and doing things better. In addition, many of these products are not unnecessarily anachronistic (like say making an electronic device with discrete components and hand made pcbs). Bravo to these people. [1] By precision I mean they must follow a meticulous process to achieve near-perfection of result.
菊野体现了日本职人精神,如同寿司之神小野二郎
这让我想起寿司之神小野二郎:“一旦你决定了自己的职业,就必须全身心投入工作,你要爱上你的工作,绝不抱怨,必须用一生去磨练技艺。这就是成功的秘诀,也是赢得尊敬的关键。”
coolswan查看英文原文
This reminds me actually a lot of Jiro Ono (famed sushi-maker). "Once you decide on your occupation, you must immerse yourself in your work. You have to fall in love with your work. Never complain about your job. You must dedicate your life to mastering your skill. That's the secret of success and is the key to being regarded honorably."
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