互联网与文化varasanos.com
Jeff Varasano 著名的纽约披萨配方 (2008)
Jeff Varasano's Famous New York Pizza Recipe (2008)
2010 — 2017，它一次次回到首页
黑点是上首页（≥ 50 分）的那次投稿，空心点是没冲上去的投稿，点越大分数越高。
导读
这是程序员出身的 Jeff Varasano 在 2008 年写的一篇长文，详细讲解如何用家用烤箱做出接近纽约顶级水准的披萨，涵盖面团含水量、低温长时间发酵、高温烘烤等要点。文中还破除了不少常见迷思，比如强调技术比特种面粉等原料更重要。
为什么经久不衰：它把做披萨当成一个可调试的工程问题来拆解，方法具体、结论经过无数人验证，多年来一直是家庭披萨爱好者的入门经典。
HN 评论精选
五年实验总结出三大关键：超高炉温、好酵母、自解工艺，并分享了计算工具。
这个配方里有很多好东西，是很好的学习起点。我建了柴火披萨炉并做了五年多实验，发现真正影响味道的只有几件事：1) 烤炉，900 度，烤得快、边缘有豹纹斑点，绝对值得；2) 酵母，推荐 Ischia 酸面团酵母，带出近乎花香的微妙风味；3) 自解（autolyse），除盐外所有材料静置 30-45 分钟生成面筋。我还做了一个自动计算比例和含水率的面团电子表格，欢迎提问。
mb22查看英文原文
There is some good stuff in this recipe. It's a great starting point for learning. I built a wood burning pizza oven and have been doing experiments for 5+ years, and what I've discovered is only certain things make a taste-able difference. 1. Oven. 900 degrees baby. Pizza cooks fast, and tastes delicious. You can get the "leoparding" on the edges. 100% worth it if you have time and space. 2. Yeast. Get the Ischia: https://www.amazon.com/Italian-Ischia-Camaldoli-Sourdough-Cultures/dp/B006TMLF98 it's a very light sourdough that imparts a delicious almost floral taste. I put a little bit of IDY in the mix to help sometimes, but this yeast is delicious. 3. Autolyse. Let everything but the salt sit for 30-45 minutes to generate gluten. Here's my dough spreadsheet that auto calculates ratios and hydration %: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1b46NnndcrK9ImRXx5BW8e3vvH74vB7NYxMlbU2B53fM/edit?usp=sharing I'm happy to answer more questions if people are interested.
该网站破除迷思，作者结合 Jeff 的自解法改进了自己的流程，效果显著。
Jeff 的网站是披萨极客的好资源，破除了不少迷思（比如醒面）。我自己的流程（在约 800 度的 Blackstone 炉里烤）更接近 Tony Gemignani 的基础那不勒斯配方，但加上了 Jeff 更早更长的自解步骤，效果天壤之别，真希望早点知道。
tribby查看英文原文
surprised to see this here, but it doesn't have style sheets, so maybe not too surprised ;) jeff varasano's website is a great resource for pizza hackers and lays a lot of myths to rest (like proofing). my own process (which I cook in a blackstone pizza oven at ~800°) has a bit more in common with tony gemignani's basic neopolitan (described in his pizza bible), with the addition of the earlier and longer autolysing period used by jeff. the difference is night and day and I wish I'd learned about it a lot sooner! if you're in the bay area and this kind of pizza is your thing, be sure to check out the following places -- SF: pizzetta 211, una pizza napoletana, tony's, firetrail, a16 oakland: boot & shoe, pizzaiolo, also a16 berkeley: lucia's, emilia's on that list, emilia's is far and away my favorite. it's a one man operation, dirt cheap ($21 tax included for an 18" pie), and just impossibly good. he gave me some of his sourdough starter once, and killing it rather quickly is one of my greatest regrets.
从新手视角验证了文中的关键建议：提高含水量和石板高温烘烤带来质变。
两年前我决定大量练习做披萨。我住小公寓、只有燃气烤箱，最初 400 度用烤盘做得很糟。后来妻子把烧烤石板塞进烤箱上层，这是最大的转折。下一个飞跃是读 Varasano 学会含水量概念——我原来只有 45-50%，需要提到 62-65%，虽然很难揉但烤出来很棒。我也开始做他推荐的长时间冷发酵，虽然尝不出差别，但认同避免大气泡的目标。他还建议买已知的酵母菌种而非依赖环境野生酵母，我喜欢这种强调可预测、可复现的思路。
pao查看英文原文
I decided about two years ago try to make a lot of pizza and see how good I could get. I live in a small apartment with a gas oven. When I started, I would make them on a regular baking pan with the oven set to 400°. They were terrible, but it was fun. At some point, my wife jammed a rectangular grilling stone (from Amazon) into our broiler. That made more of a difference than anything. If your broiler is in the main compartment of your oven, then it's a lot easier: get a stone and put it on the highest rack. The next big leap forward was reading Jeff Varasano and learning the basics of hydration. Turns out I was in the 45-50% range. I just needed to get that into the 62% or 65% range or whatever he says. It's counterintuitive because it's so hard to knead at that hydration, but it cooks beautifully. I've started doing a long, cold rise like he recommends. I don't know how much difference it makes. I can't really taste a difference. But I do appreciate the goal of avoiding big bubbles. I'd love to play with different yeasts next, but I keep killing my starters. Jeff has some good thoughts on starters. I like his recommendation to buy a known starter rather than relying on whatever is in your environment. I like the focus on predictability and reproducibility. But I think most people do wild yeast with good results. I think the Tartine book is also a good resource for the starter (and for a lot of things).
赞同原文观点：技术和大要素远比昂贵装备重要，工具党常常本末倒置。
看来我的面团一直太干了。我很喜欢他的这个观点：特种面粉不是关键因素，就像有人争论千元网球拍两种拉线磅数的优劣，自己却击球偏出八英尺。除非你想从 99.8 百分位提升到 99.9，否则别纠结这个。专注三大要素：高温、好的酸面团菌种、技术（揉面和发酵），这才是从 50 分位到 99 分位的路径。我常困惑于那些骑 1500 美元自行车却骑得很慢的人——中级水平就买超专业工具是愚蠢的。
erikpukinskis查看英文原文
Awesome. Apparently my dough has been too dry my whole life. I love this point he makes: Specialty flour is not a huge factor in this process. It's like when you see people arguing about the relative merits of 2 different tensions pulls on $1,000 tennis rackets, meanwhile they go out and miss the ball by 8 feet. Forget it. Maybe if you are making pies at the 99.8th percentile and you want to move to the 99.9th, then you should be worrying about this. Otherwise, let it go. Work on the BIG 3 factors: high heat, a good sourdough starter and technique (mixing and fermenting). This is where you will move from the 50th percentile to the 99th. I'm constantly baffled by people who have $1500 bicycles but are... well, slow. I think in some cases, having expensive tools actually will make you WORSE. Are you going to train harder if you slip through 5 seconds ahead of your peer, or 5 seconds behind? Don't buy cheap crap. Know how your tools work. But buying super-pro tools when you're intermediate is stupid.
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